Troubleshooting Your Frigidaire GRSC2352AF Refrigerator When It’s Not Cooling Properly

It can be alarming when you notice your Frigidaire GRSC2352AF refrigerator isn’t keeping things as cold as it should. Warm food, melting ice, or drinks that aren’t chilled are signs that something isn’t right. Before scheduling a service call, there are several common issues you can check yourself. This guide will walk you through steps to diagnose and potentially fix cooling problems with your Frigidaire GRSC2352AF side-by-side refrigerator.

Safety First: Always unplug the refrigerator from its power source before performing any cleaning, inspection, or maintenance involving areas containing electrical components such as the compressor, fans, or coils. Failure to do so poses a risk of electric shock.

Tools You May Need:

• Phillips head screwdriver
• 1/4-inch nut driver
• Vacuum cleaner with brush and crevice attachments
• Condenser coil cleaning brush (recommended)  
• Flashlight

1. Check Temperature Settings and Error Codes Sometimes the simplest solution is the right one. Temperature controls can be accidentally adjusted, or the refrigerator might be displaying an error code.

• Verify Settings: Locate the temperature controls on the external dispenser panel. Check the current temperature settings for both the refrigerator and freezer compartments.  
• Recommended Settings: Frigidaire typically recommends setting the refrigerator compartment to 37°F (3°C) and the freezer to 0°F (-18°C) for models with electronic controls. Ensure your settings haven’t been changed to a warmer temperature.  
• Check for Error Codes: Look at the external display panel for any error codes or alarms, such as ‘H’, ‘HI’, ‘PF’, or ‘Sb’. A ‘High Temp’ alarm (‘H’ or ‘HI’) indicates the temperature inside has risen above the safe threshold (e.g., 55°F in the fridge or 26°F in the freezer), often due to a door left ajar or a component issue. Note any codes and consult your owner’s manual or Frigidaire support for specific meanings.  
• Allow Time: If you’ve adjusted the settings or cleared an alarm, allow the refrigerator at least 24 hours to fully stabilize at the new temperature before determining if the issue is resolved.  

2. Reset the Refrigerator Sometimes, a simple power cycle can resolve temporary electronic glitches affecting the control board.  

• Unplug: Disconnect the refrigerator from the wall outlet.
• Wait: Leave it unplugged for 5-10 minutes to allow the system’s electronic controls to fully reset.
• Plug In: Reconnect the power cord.
• Monitor: Wait several hours (up to 24) to see if cooling performance returns to normal.

3. Inspect Door Seals (Gaskets) Warm air entering the refrigerator can significantly impact its ability to cool efficiently. The door seals are crucial for maintaining an airtight environment.  

• Clean the Seals: Wipe down the rubber door seals with warm, soapy water and a cloth. Dry them thoroughly. Food debris or stickiness can prevent a proper seal.
• Check for Damage: Look for any rips, tears, cracks, stiffness, warping, or visibly flattened areas in the seals around both the refrigerator and freezer doors. Seals should feel pliable.
• Test the Seal: Close the door on a dollar bill. If you can easily pull the bill out without resistance, the seal might be weak in that spot and may need replacement. Check several spots around both doors.

4. Ensure Proper Airflow Inside Cold air needs to circulate freely throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments.  

• Check Vents: Locate the air vents (slotted openings) inside both the refrigerator and freezer sections, often along the back or side walls.
• Remove Obstructions: Make sure food items, containers, or bags are not directly blocking these vents. Rearrange items to allow air to move freely. Overpacking can also restrict airflow.  

5. Check the Air Damper Control The air damper controls the flow of cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. A malfunctioning damper is a common cause of the refrigerator section being warm while the freezer stays cold.  

• Locate Air Inlet: Find the air inlet vent inside the refrigerator compartment, typically high up on the back wall where air enters from the freezer section.  
• Feel for Airflow: Carefully place your hand near the vent. You should feel cold air flowing into the refrigerator when the cooling system is running.
• Listen: You might hear the small motor operating the damper cycling periodically.  
• Diagnosis: If you feel little or no cold air entering the refrigerator section (while the freezer is cold and the fans seem to be running), the damper might be stuck closed or malfunctioning. Accessing the damper itself often requires removing internal shelving and the control housing. If you suspect a damper issue, professional service is usually required.
  • Note: If accessing internal components near the damper is necessary for inspection, unplug the refrigerator first.

6. Clean the Condenser Coils WARNING: RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK. UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR from the power outlet before attempting this step. Condenser coils release heat removed from the inside of the refrigerator. If covered in dust or debris, they can’t dissipate heat effectively, forcing the cooling system to work harder and less efficiently.  

• Locate Coils: Consult your owner’s manual for the exact location. On counter-depth models like the GRSC2352AF , coils are most likely located underneath the unit, accessed by removing the front kickplate/grille, or possibly via a lower access panel at the back. Use a nut driver or screwdriver as needed to remove the access panel/grille.  
• Clean Gently: Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment and/or a specific condenser coil cleaning brush to gently remove dust, pet hair, and debris from the coils and surrounding area.  
• Frequency: Clean coils at least once or twice a year, more often if you have pets. Replace the panel/grille when finished.  

7. Check the Condenser Fan Motor WARNING: RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK. UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR from the power outlet before attempting this step. The condenser fan (located near the condenser coils and compressor, usually underneath or at the lower back ) pulls air over the coils to help dissipate heat.  

• Inspect (Unplugged): Visually check if the fan blades are blocked by debris or obstructions. Try spinning the blade gently by hand. It should move freely. If it’s stiff or doesn’t spin, the motor may need replacement.  
• Listen (Plugged In): After ensuring the area is clear and safe, briefly plug the refrigerator back in. When the compressor is running, you should hear the condenser fan running nearby. A normal fan makes a steady whirring sound. Loud buzzing, grinding, or squealing noises suggest the motor is failing. If you hear the compressor running but not the fan, the fan motor is likely faulty. Unplug the refrigerator again if further inspection or service is needed.  

8. Check the Evaporator Fan Motor & Frost Pattern (Inside Freezer) WARNING: RISK OF ELECTRIC SHOCK. UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR from the power outlet before attempting this step. This fan circulates cold air from the evaporator coils (located behind a panel inside the freezer section) throughout the freezer and refrigerator compartments.

• Listen: Before unplugging, open the freezer door. You should typically hear this fan running. Pressing the door light switch (simulating the door being closed) should cause the fan to run if the system is calling for cooling. If you hear nothing, or if you hear loud buzzing, grinding, or squealing, the fan could be blocked by ice buildup or the motor may have failed.  
• Inspect Fan & Coils (Unplugged): Remove shelving and the interior back panel inside the freezer section (consult manual if needed).
  • Fan: Look for excessive frost or ice buildup obstructing the fan blades. If heavily frosted, it might indicate a defrost system problem. If clear, but the fan doesn’t run when powered, the motor itself might be faulty.  
  • Frost Pattern: Examine the metal evaporator coils behind the panel. The pattern of frost provides crucial diagnostic clues :
    • Heavy, Snow-Like Frost Covering ALL Coils: This strongly suggests a Defrost System Problem (e.g., faulty defrost heater, thermostat, or control board).  
    • Frost Only on a Small Section (usually where refrigerant enters), or No Frost At All (despite compressor running for a while): This typically indicates a Sealed System Problem (e.g., refrigerant leak, restriction, or inefficient compressor).  
  • Diagnosis: Both defrost system and sealed system problems require professional service. Reassemble the freezer interior panels and shelves.

9. Listen for the Compressor The compressor is the heart of the cooling system, pumping refrigerant. It’s usually located near the condenser coils and fan at the bottom/back of the unit.

• Check Operation: Listen carefully near the compressor area.
  • Normal Sound: It should make a steady, low humming or buzzing sound when running. You should also feel a slight vibration.  
  • Abnormal Sounds: If you hear the compressor trying to start (a click, then silence, repeating every few minutes), the start relay or the compressor itself might be faulty. Complete silence when it should be running (and fans are also off) could indicate a control board or power issue.  
  • Constant Running: If the compressor runs constantly without shutting off, but the fridge isn’t cooling properly, it could indicate a sealed system problem (like a refrigerant leak or inefficient compressor) or a faulty thermostat/sensor.  

When to Seek Professional Service If you’ve worked through these steps and your Frigidaire GRSC2352AF refrigerator is still not cooling correctly, it likely indicates a more complex problem requiring a qualified appliance repair technician. These issues include:

• A faulty fan motor (condenser or evaporator)  
• A malfunctioning defrost system (timer, heater, thermostat) indicated by heavy, uniform frost on evaporator coils  
• A faulty air damper control  
• A defective temperature sensor (thermistor)  
• A problem with the sealed system (e.g., refrigerant leak, restriction, inefficient compressor) indicated by partial or no frost on evaporator coils  
• A faulty compressor start relay/capacitor  
• A control board issue

In these cases, reach out to us, we’re here to help!

Manufacturer Resources: For detailed diagrams, parts lists, specific instructions, or to schedule service for your GRSC2352AF model, refer to the official Frigidaire resources:

• Frigidaire GRSC2352AF Product Support Page (Manuals, FAQs, Troubleshooting): https://support.frigidaire.com/Owner-Center/Product-Support/GRSC2352AF