How to Replace Your Frigidaire Refrigerator’s Ice Door Center When the Chute Won’t Close

Alex HRefrigerator RepairLeave a Comment

When you press a cup against the switch of your ice chute, a lot of parts start moving to open and close the chute. But if the door chute is no longer closing properly, the door center may be broken. This is the part that physically blocks ice from falling out. Order a replacement part #241688501 for your Frigidaire refrigerator. Then follow these steps to install it yourself.

1. Unplug your refrigerator.

During this repair, you will be unplugging wires and disassembling parts. Unplug the refrigerator before you start to keep yourself safe from electricity. This repair also involves disconnecting a water line, so turn off the local water connection to minimize the risk of leaks or spills.

2. Disassemble the door.

Open the refrigerator door to access the freezer door handle. Loosen the screws at the top and bottom of the handle without fully detaching. This releases the pressure so you should be able to lift the door away and set it aside.

Next, pull off the drip tray under the ice and water chutes. Remove the three screws below the drip tray. Then pull the whole black frame up and away from the freezer door. A wire ribbon attached the frame to the circuit board, so carefully pull the ribbon out of the circuit board before setting the frame aside. After that, remove the three screws that secure the top bracket in place around the circuit board. Tilt the bracket down so you can access the parts inside. Remove the six screws around the perimeter of the circuit board. Make sure you hold the circuit board in place as you remove the last screw so it doesn’t hit anything as it comes loose. Detach the wide white wire harness on the back of the left side. Then let the board hang freely. Make sure you set the clear protective shield aside so you can attach it later.

Pull out the water tube from the right side. Use needle nose pliers to carefully pry it out of the bracket. Now the bracket is free to take to a table or work surface.

3. Disassemble the bracket assembly.

First, unplug the right-hand wire plug at the top of the circuit board with the red and black wires (not the one on the left). Use a flathead screwdriver to pry them free.

Next, remove the two screws holding the actuator in place. The actuator is the part around the large black circle. Once the screws have been removed, press down the black circle, or the flapper, so you can wiggle the actuator free. The actuator is attached to the plugs that were removed earlier. Carefully push the plugs down and free so you can fully separate the actuator without stretching the wires.

After that, press up on the underside of the flapper so you can pry the door center free. Set it aside.

4. Replace the door center.

Center the new door center over the flapper white-side down and orient it so the three tabs are in the middle of each of the three rubber sections. Press it into place by bending the flapper and sliding all of the tabs under the rubber sections.

Once the door center is in place, reinstall the ice actuator. Hold it approximately in place, and threat the red wires behind the switches. To install the actuator, push the flapper closed to rest the actuator on top of it. Press down both parts further so you can slide the top two hinges into the groove. Then secure it in place with the two screws in the top corner.

Manually push down the switch and release it to make sure the door center closes and then reopens.

Once you know the parts are assembled correctly, plug the red wires back into the circuit board. The length of the wire needs to go behind the switches to minimize the risk of any pinching or pulling. Carefully push the circuit board back into place against the bracket without securing it. 

5. Reassemble the refrigerator. 

Hold the bracket against the freezer section door. Carefully push the water line back into the hole at the bottom of the bracket. Use pliers to hold it in place and then push the bracket up around it. If the fit is too snug, lightly cover the water line in soapy water for lubrication. Once the water line is connected, orient the bracket so it’s flush against the cavity. Make sure the wide wire harness to left is pulled to the side so you can plug it in later. Hold the bracket in place and secure it with the three screws. Now you can plug in the wide wire harness. press the circuit board into place carefully and hold it still as you reattach the six screws around the perimeter of the circuit board. Start with the bottom three screws and then add the clear protective layer on top of the circuit board. Sandwich it between the board and the top three screws to secure it.

Bring the frame back over to the refrigerator. Before you reattach it, press the end of the ribbon wire harness back into the horizontal opening on the right side of the circuit board (between the bottom middle and right screws).

Orient the frame against the freezer door with the buttons along the top. Slide the top three hooks into the holes in the door and push it flush against the door. then press it down until it clicks into place. Secure it with three screws along the bottom. Slide the drip tray in place to cover the three screws.

Install the handle. Start by opening the refrigerator section door. Then position the cavities on the top and bottom over the posts. Tighten the screws until they grab onto the posts securely.

Shut the door and plug your refrigerator back in. test the ice chute to make sure it dispenses ice properly.

If your refrigerator or other appliances need additional repairs, browse our resources at Fred’s Appliance Service. You can also contact our team of trained appliance repair technicians for troubleshooting, repairs, and maintenance.

How to Replace Your LG Washer’s Circulation Pump Motor

Alex HWasher RepairLeave a Comment

One of the most important parts of your washing machine is the circulation pump motor. When this part isn’t operating correctly, the water isn’t circulating and your clothes come out of the wash and rinse cycles still dirty. If you want to replace this part yourself, order part #EAU61383503 for your LG washer. Once it arrives, follow these steps to get your washer back in working order:

1. Unplug the washer and turn off the two water connections.

The first step to any repair is unplugging the appliance. This is especially important when you need to disassemble the machine to reach the interior parts. Also, turn off the water connections to minimize the risk of a water leak and pull the appliance away from the wall.

Depending on the space you have available, you may also want to disconnect the water lines and pull the drain line connection out of the wall. During this repair, you will need to tilt the machine back to reach the circulation pump motor.

2. Disassemble the machine to remove the front access panel.

Locate the pump filter in the bottom left corner of the machine. Remove the door by opening it and popping the hinges free. Pull the black hose out of the clip and then remove the hose cap. There may be water, so have a towel ready to mop up moisture.

Next, remove the screw that secures the pump filter housing in place. Remove the housing. Then loosen the screw beneath that secures the front panel to the frame of the machine.

Remove the outer boot seal.

Open the door. Pry the wire clamp out. Pull the outer edge of the seal out from the edge of the front panel. Loosen the screw securing the door latch mechanism to the right side, and then reach past the seal around the back of the front panel to pull the mechanism inside the machine and out of the way. Then close the door.

After that, remove the top access panel. Go to the rear of the machine and remove the two screws holding the top panel to the rear brackets. Slide the top panel back and lift it up. Set it aside.

Then remove the dispenser drawer at the top left corner of the control panel. You may have to reach into it to depress the back tab. Then remove the screw holding the housing in place and push the housing inside away from the front panel.

Move on to removing the control panel. To start, remove the screw located at the right interior side of the control panel. Loosen the ties holding the lengths of wires flush and together against the control panel. Unplug the three wire harnesses.

Next, peel the control panel away from the front panel starting on the top right corner. Once the top is loose, tilt it forward so you can carefully pull the wires out of cutout and set it aside.

Lean against the door and front access panel to hold them in place. Then remove the screws along the top of the front access panel where the control panel used to be. Tilt the panel forward, lift free of the bottom groove, and set it aside.

3. Remove the old circulation pump motor.

Locate the circulation pump motor in the bottom left corner to the right of the green and cream hoses.

Before you start removing parts, set a box behind the washer and tilt the machine back at a forty-five-degree angle so you can easily reach the parts. Don’t pinch the hoses and drain lines on the back.

Next, remove the two wire harnesses from the assembly. Also, remove the retaining clip from the assembly. Remove the three screws that hold the pump motor up against the housing. The whole part should now come out. If you’re nervous about realigning the screws and wires during reassembly, take a picture before you get started so you have an exact guide.

4. Install the new circulation pump motor.

Now that the old part is out of the washer, remove the protective shield from the part and snap it into place around the new circulation pump motor.

Orient the new pump motor so the seal fits into housing. Press it into place and re-secure all three screws.

Next, reattach black and blue wires according to your picture (with the black wire on the bottom or right port and the blue wire on the top or left port) and make sure the excess lengths of the wires are securely held in place in the retaining clip.

5. Reassemble the washer. 

First, pull the washer back into a standing position so it’s upright. Next, reattach the front panel by setting it on the bottom groove. Tilt it flush with the front of the panel.

Lean against it to hold in place as you secure the top in place with the screws.

After that, reattach the control panel. Set bottom edge against the frame and slide the wires through the cutout. Tilt the panel up flush against the frame and snap the locking tabs shut. Tighten the screw in the top right corner inside the machine.

Then reattach the two wire harnesses on the interior sides of the machine. Then slip the wires back against the back of the control panel and tighten the ties to secure the wires.

Next, push the dispenser housing back into position in the front opening and secure it in place with the two screws. Push the drawer back into position and close it.

Set the top panel on top of the machine, but make sure an inch or so hangs over the back edge. Slide it along the rails so it snaps into position under the front edge of the control panel. Retighten the two screws on the back bracket. Go to the front of the machine. Push the door switch assembly back through the cutout on the right side of the door opening and secure the mechanism with the two screws. Pull the seal back into place around the opening. Press the edges into the groove and run your hand along the whole circumference to check for gaps or loose sections. You should hear it snap into place along the lip.

Next, install wire the clamp into the groove. Orient the spring at the bottom and work counterclockwise from there to press it into the groove. Once it’s too tight to pull into position by hand, use pliers to stretch the spring and push the extended wire into place around the remainder of the circle. Tug on the seal to make sure it’s secure. The clamp and the spring should be invisible. Then shut the door.

After that, reattach the screw in the filter pump cutout to hold everything back in place. Then replace the housing and attach it with the second screw. Reattach the drain hose lock to the black hose and fold the hose back up into the retaining clip. Reattach the door by snapping the hose into position.

If you disconnected the water lines, retighten them to the inlets on the back of the machine and reinsert the drain hose to the connection in the wall. Turn on the two water connections, push the washer back into position, and plug the washer back in.

For more repair guides and troubleshooting advice, contact our team at Fred’s Appliance Service.

How to Replace a Faulty Gas Burner Valve Assembly in a LG Dryer

Alex HDryer RepairLeave a Comment

If you reach into your LG dryer model DLG2602R and discover your clothes are still soaking wet after the dry cycle has finished, your appliance is likely suffering from a lack of heat. Unfortunately, this is a common issue that is caused by a multitude of possible malfunctions. Once you’ve ruled out a problem with the high limit thermostat, the flame sensor, the thermistor, and the ignitor, you should consider examining the gas burner valve assembly. The gas burner valve assembly supplies gas to the dryer burner. A malfunctioning valve assembly won’t administer gas, which means your dryer won’t heat up. If you determine a faulty gas burner valve is causing your dryer’s no heat issue, keep reading to learn how to replace the valve assembly.

Before you start repairing your dryer, unplug it from the wall and turn off the gas supply valve. You should never attempt a repair without wearing the proper safety gear, such as, work gloves and goggles. If you’re not confident in your ability to successfully replace the gas burner valve assembly, or you do not feel comfortable working with the dryer’s gas system, please contact a dryer repair specialist to complete the replacement process.

How to Replace the Gas Burner Valve Assembly in Your LG Dryer

  1. Pull your dryer forward and away from your laundry room wall. On the back of your appliance, unthread the screws that secure the top panel to the dryer. Once the screws are out, pull the panel towards you, and then lift it up and off your dryer.
  2. At this point, you’ll need to disassemble the control panel. Before you disconnect any wires, we suggest taking a picture of all the wire connections, to ensure you can easily reconnect them during reassembly. After you’ve snapped a photo of the control board, start detaching the wire harnesses from the back of the board. Once all the wires are disconnected, take out the screws that hold the control board console to the dryer, and then pull the console off the front of your appliance.
  3. With the control board removed, you can disconnect the door switch, which you’ll find near the top, center of the door frame. Next, open your dryer door and unthread the screws that hold the front panel to the lint screen housing. Once the screws are out, close the door and unthread the screws at the top of the front panel. Then, carefully tilt the front panel backwards and pull it up and off your dryer.
  4. Now it’s time to take the control panel bracket off the dryer. First, locate the dryer light bulb and disconnect the wire harness running to it. Next, on the back of the bracket, you’ll find two wire retaining clips. Take out the wires being held in the retaining clips. Then, remove the screws holding the control panel bracket to the front of the dryer, and pull the bracket off your appliance.
  5. Near the bottom of your dryer, disconnect the wire harness that belongs to the moisture sensor. Once you’ve separated the wires, unthread the screws that secure the bulkhead to the dryer. Then, carefully lift the bulkhead off your appliance.
  6. Reach in-between the dryer floor and dryer drum to take the drive belt off the idler pulley and the drive motor pulley.
  7. Grab the drive belt on top of the dryer drum, and use it to help you guide the drum out of the dryer cabinet.
  8. With the drum removed, you can locate the gas burner valve assembly. Once you’ve spotted the component in the cabinet’s lower right hand corner, disconnect the wire harnesses running to the valve assembly terminals. Then, using a Phillips screwdriver, unthread the screws which secure the gas line to the burner valve. Once the screws are loose, carefully pull the gas line off the burner valve. Next, take out the screws holding the valve assembly to the mounting bracket, and then take the gas burner valve off the mounting bracket and out of the dryer cabinet.
  9. Before you can install the new valve, you’ll need to take the orifice off the old gas burner valve and place it on the new component. Once the orifice is securely attached to the new gas burner valve assembly, you can proceed with the installation process.
  10. Place the gas burner valve assembly on the mounting bracket. Make sure you line up the screw holes on the bracket with the screw holes on the valve assembly. Then, replace the screws used to secure the gas burner valve to the mounting bracket. Next, align the gas supply tube with the burner valve, and insert the tube into the valve. Once the tube and valve are connected, rethread the screws you took out earlier to secure the tube to the valve. To finish the installation, reconnect the gas burner wire harnesses to the valve terminals.
  11. Before you start putting your dryer make together, take a moment to check for any gas leaks. To do so, fill a spray bottle with soapy water, and turn the gas supply valve back on. Then, spray the gas burner valve with the soapy water. If you see any bubbles forming, a gas leak is present, meaning the connection is not tight enough. At this point, turn off the dryer’s gas supply, and try tightening the tube and valve coupling. Once you’ve adjusted the union, turn the gas back on, and run the gas leak test again. If no bubbles appear, the gas leak is no longer an issue, however, if bubbles are still forming, we suggest contacting a dryer repair technician to further inspect the problem.
  12. After you test for leaks and find none, turn the gas running to your dryer off, and start putting your appliance back together. Pick-up your dryer drum and carefully guide it into the dryer cabinet, ensuring the back of the drum sits on the drum rollers. Then, reach in-between the drum and the dryer floor to rethread the drive belt on the idler pulley and the drive motor pulley. Make sure the belt is installed in a zigzag formation.
  13. Retrieve the dryer bulkhead, and align it with the front of your dryer. Then, secure the part with the screws you took out earlier. With the bulkhead in place, reconnect the moisture sensor wire harness, and the light bulb wire harness.
  14. Now you can reattach the control board bracket. Once the bracket is in place, pull the door switch wire harness to the front of the dryer through one of the openings on the bracket, and then snap the wire into the retaining clips on the back of the bracket.
  15. Grab the dryer front panel and line it up with the front of your appliance. Before laying the panel flush, reconnect the door switch harness to the door switch, and then finish installing the front panel. Once you’ve added the screws to secure the panel, open up the dryer door, and rethread the screws that connect the front panel to the lint screen housing.
  16. Snap the control panel back on the dryer, and reattach the screws you removed earlier. Finish installing the control panel by reconnecting the wire harnesses that run to the back of the panel.
  17. To complete your repair, reinstall the dryer’s top panel, and then plug-in your appliance and turn the gas supply valve back on.

If your dryer isn’t heating and you’re having trouble pinpointing the malfunction, please contact us today, and we’ll be happy to help diagnose and replace the faulty component.

How to Replace the Tub Filter in Your Electrolux Front Load Washer

Alex HWasher RepairLeave a Comment

In your Electrolux washer model EWFLS70JSS, the tub filter, also known as a coin trap, is found inside the tub to pump hose. The filter prevents foreign objects from entering the drain pump. If the coin trap is damaged and debris is able to bypass the filter, your washer may not drain properly, or the drain pump may sustain irreparable damage, meaning it will also need to be replaced. A clogged tub filter can also cause an issue with the draining process. If you suspect a damaged tub filter, or an obstructed tub filter is behind your washer draining slowly or not draining at all, continue reading to learn how to replace the component.

Before you begin disassembling your washing machine, unplug the appliance and turn off its hot and cold water supply valves. Safety should always be a priority when repairing one of your appliances, so please protect your hands and eyes by wearing work gloves and goggles as you replace the tub filter in your washer.

How to Replace the Tub Filter in Your Electrolux Front Load Washer

  1. Begin your repair by pulling your washer forward and away from your laundry room wall. Next, head to the back of your appliance and disconnect the hot and cold fill lines from the rear panel, and then detach the drain hose from the wall. Next, start unthreading the screws that hold the main top to the washing machine. Once you’ve taken out the screws, pull the top back a few inches, and then lift it up and off your washer.
  2. Underneath the main top, locate the power cord wire harness. Disconnect the harness by pushing down on the locking tab and pulling the wires apart. Then, pull the green grounding wire off the top edge of the rear mounting bracket. With a pair of needle nose pliers, push the small plastic mounting tab, holding the power cord wire, out of the washer’s metal bracket.
  3. Loosen and remove the screws securing the rear mounting bracket to the washer’s upper cabinet. Once the top and back screws are taken out, lift the bracket off the washer.
  4. Now, take out all the screws holding the main, rear panel to the washer. After all the screws are removed, locate the drain hose on the back panel, and unthread the screw securing the drain hose retainer to the panel. Then, kneel down near the bottom left corner of the back panel and remove the screws securing the washer’s control board to the panel. Finally, lift the main, rear panel up and off your machine.
  5. Take the drive belt off the back of the tub, by gently tugging on the belt while rotating the drive pulley.
  6. At this point, take a look underneath the tub and behind your washer’s control board to locate the tub to pump hose. Once you see it, reach inside the washer cabinet and place a towel under the hose to catch any water that spills out of the hose when you disconnect it from the tub.
  7. Once the towel is in place, use a pair of pliers to release the hose clamp securing the hose to the air chamber shaft. Then, pull the hose off the air chamber shaft. Next, using a screwdriver, loosen the hose clamp screw securing the hose to the tub opening. After the screw is loose, slide the clamp down, and pull the hose off the opening in the outer tub.
  8. Reach inside the hose and retrieve the tub filter sitting inside it. Don’t be surprised if the filter is filled with foreign objects and covered in unrecognizable gunk. If you want, you can shake the debris out of the filter to discover what types of objects have been taking a ride in your washing machine.
  9. After you are done inspecting your old tub filter, use a screwdriver to pry the filter cover off the damaged part. The new tub filter does not include a new cover, so you’ll need to use the old cover on your new filter. The cover is held in place by four locking tabs, simply disengage the tabs with your screwdriver, and pull the cover off the damaged tub filter. Before you put the cover on the new tub filter take it to your sink and clean it off.
  10. Now it’s time to start installing your new tub filter. First, position the washed filter cover on-top of the tub filter and push down on it to engage the locking tabs. Then, slide the tub filter into the tub to pump hose. The tab on the filter should line up with the small slot inside the hose. Once the filter is in place, reinstall the hose to the tub opening. Slide the hose clamp up the hose, and tighten its screw to secure the hose to tub connection. Next, push the hose onto the air chamber shaft and replace the clamp to secure the hose.
  11. With your new tub filter installed and ready to go, you can start reassembling your washer. First, grab the washer’s drive belt and loop it around the motor pulley. Then, as you slowly rotate the drive pulley, carefully stretch the drive belt around it. After the belt is installed, turn the drive pulley in both directions a few times to ensure the drive belt stays on and the pulley is not restricted by any obstructions.
  12. Align the rear panel with the back of your washer and secure it with the screws you removed earlier. Once you’ve finished installing the rear panel screws, reattach the screws that secure the control board to the washer’s back panel. After that, replace the drain hose retainer and rethread its screw to hold the component and drain hose in place.
  13. Line up the rear mounting bracket with the holes in the washer frame and secure it with mounting screws. Next, locate the power cord wire and the plastic retainer attached to it. Then, push the retainer back into the small opening in the reinstalled rear mounting bracket. Reattach the grounding wire to the edge of the mounting bracket, and reconnect the power cord wire harnesses.
  14. Pick up the main top panel and place it on the washer, leaving about an inch or two of space between the front of the panel and the front of the washer. Then, push the panel forward to lock it in place.
  15. Finally, reconnect the fill lines to the back of your washer and reattach the drain hose to the wall. Next, reposition your appliance against your laundry room wall, and plug-in your washing machine and turn on the hot and cold water supply valves.

If replacing the tub filter in your washer did not resolve your appliance’s draining issue, please contact us today to schedule an appointment with one of our appliance repair technicians.