How to Replace the Main Control Board in a Whirlpool Double Oven

troubleshootingCooking, Oven Repair

It’s almost bearable if one of the ovens in a double oven is not working but it is simply wrong when both have failed. The fact that both ovens are not working should provide a clue as to which component needs to be replaced.
If you already have the part, and depending on your skill level, you’ll have your Whirlpool Double Oven ready to bake whatever epicurean delight you have planned for this evening.

Tool Needed:

  • Flathead Screwdriver
  • Needle Nose Pliers
  • Philips Head Screwdriver

Safety First

Unplug the oven from its power supply before beginning any work.


There are six possible reasons why your double oven won’t heat up and you’ve already determined the first five are okay:
  • The bake and broil heating elements don’t work but test positive for continuity, which proves there is a continuous electrical path.
  • The power source is delivering 240 volts of alternating current.
  • The bake and broil heating element connection wires show no signs of burn marks or damage.
  • Testing for continuity, the thermal fuse shows a continuous electrical path is present.
If the power supply, the heating elements, thermostat, fuse, and heat sensor are operating correctly, it’s a strong possiblity that the main control board has failed and will need to be replaced.
If you’ve decided to install the part yourself, you’ve come to the right place. Simply follow along with this somewhat lengthy (approximately a 10-minute read) guide so you can get back to doing what you do best.
Since you know that the thermal fuse is functioning properly, this one symptom should tell you that the control board is getting power but is incapable of operating your oven. The first thing you will need to do is remove the lower oven door.

How to Remove the Oven Door

  • Open the lower oven door and find the hinges.
  • Release each hinge by pulling back on the hinge locks.
  • Position the door until it is about 45 degrees to the floor, lift it off its hinges, and set aside. Be aware that oven doors are heavy.

How to Remove the Cosmetic Molding

  • Remove the two bottom screws that hold the molding in place.
  • Open the top door, locate and remove two more screws that hold the molding.
  • Remove the two screws that hold the bottom decorative molding in position.
  • Carefully remove all molding and set aside.
Pro Tip: Place all screws you remove in a small jar so they don’t wander off.

How to Access the Main Control Board

  • Remove the four mounting screws located on the oven frame.
  • Pull the oven out slightly, about 3-4 inches, to gain access to the two control board mounting screws, two on the right side and two on the left.
  • Open the top oven door and grab the control board on each side. Pull it toward yourself and then pull up. You now have access to the control board with its menagerie of wire harnesses you will need to remove. But wait, don’t remove those wires just yet. Still, a few more steps before we remove those wires.

How to Remove the Old Control Board

  • Carefully disconnect the ribbon cable that connects the touchpad to the main control board. This is the ribbon that communicates to the other components anything that you are commanding your oven to do. So be careful not to damage any pins as you remove it. Squeeze inward on the outer edges of the cable and pull the connection away from the board.
  • Remove four Philips screws that hold the board in position on the touchpad bracket. And Don’t forget to disconnect the grounding wire.
  • Place the touchpad on a flat workable surface.

How to Install the New Control Board

  • Line up the new control board with the screw holes on the touchpad.
  • Thread the ribbon cable through a slot located on the control board and gently push the cable into its accompanying tabs.
  • Reinstall the four Philips screws that hold the control board to the touchpad frame.
Although each wire harness is keyed to fit only one connection on the main board, it is wise to snap a picture of the old control board as there are at least two spade connectors that look alike and you’re going to want to make sure you get them connected where they belong.
  • Remove the wire harnesses from the old main control board.
  • When disconnecting wire harnesses from any component, grip the connector gently and pull. Never remove the connectors by pulling on the wires as this may cause a wire to come loose in the connection.
  • The black connectors indicate a tighter fit and you may need a set of pliers to provide additional leverage to help release the connection.
  • After removing all connections, remove the sub control board located on the left end of the old control board. The new control board does not come equipped with one.
  • Find the clip that holds the sub control board in place. Depress the clip and pull the board up to remove.
  • Now, install the sub-board on the new control board. Depress the clip, slide the board into place and release the clip to secure. That’s all there is to it.

How to Install Wire Harnesses to the New Control Board

  • One technique used by technicians is to reconnect the ground wire first to help prevent an accidental dropping of the new control board.
  • Reconnect the spade connections first. Here is where your picture should help. There are other techniques you could use. The main thing is that you ensure that these two connections return to the tabs they were designed for.
  • Continue by connecting all other wire harnesses which are keyed to connect in one connection only.
  • Another technique is to simply work in reverse of the way you removed the connections.
  • Also, it may be possible to use the top oven cover to assist you in balancing the control board.

How to Replace the New Control Panel

  • The control panel has notched openings that slide over tabs located on the front of your oven.
  • Once you feel the panel is notched in. push it down and forward slightly and feel it click into place.
  • Secure in place with the Philips screws. No need to overtighten. Overtightening will sometimes strip or break softer screws.

Final Steps

  • Push the oven back in place and secure with four Philips mounting screws. You should use a drill gun on these screws so that you provide additional torque. But still, do not overtighten.
  • Reinstall the bottom decorative molding.
  • Reinstall the frame molding.
  • Reinstall the lower oven door. Place the door hinges in the hinge opening. Lift up and open to a 90-degree position. Slide the hinge covers over the hinges.
  • Close the door.
  • Reconnect the power
  • Test the touchpad functions.
You should be ready to cook once again. However, if you are having any difficulty with this repair you may want to contact a professional appliance repair company.

How to Troubleshoot a Non-Heating Whirlpool Oven

Alex HOven Repair

If it wasn’t for your Whirlpool oven model WFG320M0BW, your family wouldn’t enjoy all those delicious meals you make for them. Unfortunately, the more use your oven gets the more wear and tear its components withstand. One of the most common malfunctions an oven experience is the no heat syndrome. While this issue is beyond frustrating, especially if you’re in the middle of cooking dinner, it doesn’t mean your oven is headed to the nearest junkyard. Diagnosing and fixing an oven that is producing little to no heat is actually a repair you can probably handle on your own. To help you troubleshoot a non-heating oven, we’ve created a list of components known for hindering an oven’s ability to heat up.
Safety Reminder: Always unplug an appliance before starting a repair, and if you are working with a gas oven, turn off the gas supply valve. Work gloves and safety goggles should be worn when fixing a malfunctioning appliance.

Check Your Gas Supply

Before inspecting any other components in your oven, test the appliance’s gas supply. If your oven isn’t receiving gas it won’t be able to heat up. To check the gas supply, simply turn on a cooktop burner. If the burner ignites, gas is entering your appliance. On the other hand, if the burner stays unlit, you’ll need to pull your range away from the wall to ensure the gas cutoff valve is open. Once you confirm the valve is in the open position, you’ll need to contact your gas supplier to find out why there is no gas coming out of the supply valve.

The Oven Igniter

Your oven igniter should produce enough heat to open the gas valve and ignite the gas entering your appliance. Over time, the igniter can weaken, meaning it will take a longer period of time to heat up. If your igniter glows for over a minute without a flame igniting, the component is no longer functioning properly.

How to Replace the Oven Igniter in Your Whirlpool Oven

  1. Start your repair by removing the lower access panel from the back of your range. Once the panel is off, pull apart the igniter and gas safety valve’s wire harnesses.
  2. Head to the front of your range, and open the oven door. Take out the oven racks. Remove the oven’s lower access panel by lifting the back up first, and then sliding the panel towards the front of the oven.
  3. The oven igniter is located on the side of the burner tube, which runs through the middle of the oven cavity. To remove the faulty oven igniter, you’ll need to detach the burner tube and take it out of your appliance. To do so, simply unthread the mounting screws securing it to the inside of the oven. Once the burner tube is free, pull it and the oven igniter out of the oven cavity.
  4. Put the burner tube on a flat solid surface, and remove the screws securing the defective oven igniter to the burner tube.
  5. Align the new oven igniter with the mounting bracket on the burner tube. Secure the igniter with screws.
  6. Go back to your range and reinstall the burner tube. Push the igniter wires through the opening on the oven’s rear wall. Reinsert the oven’s lower access panel, and put the oven racks back in your appliance.
  7. Head to the back of your appliance and reconnect the igniter’s wire harness with the gas safety valve’s harness. Replace the lower access panel and secure it with the four screws you removed earlier.
  8. Plug your appliance back in, and turn on the gas supply valve. Set your oven to preheat and wait for it to warm up to determine if the new oven igniter solved your appliance’s heating problem.

The Oven Sensor Assembly

The oven sensor and the oven control board work as a team to measure and regulate the temperature of the oven. As its name implies, the sensor detects the temperature inside the oven cavity. If the sensor is defective the oven will not heat at all or the accuracy of the sensor will be off by 50 degrees or more.

How to Replace the Oven Sensor in Your Whirlpool Oven

  1. Move to the back of your appliance and disconnect the sensor’s wire harness. Unthread the two screws securing the oven sensor to the range’s rear panel.
  2. Once the screws are removed, simply slide the sensor out of the opening in the back of the oven.
  3. Grab your new oven sensor, and insert it into the hole in the rear panel. Replace the mounting screws to hold the sensor in place. Finally, reconnect the wire harness.
  4. Plug-in your range, and turn the gas back on. Test the new sensor by turning your oven on and measuring the temperature inside the oven cavity with an oven thermometer.

Other Components That Cause a Non-Heating Oven

The Oven Control Board, as mentioned above, works in conjunction with the oven sensor. While the sensor is more likely to malfunction, the control board can also end up failing. If this happens, the component may read the temperature sent from the oven sensor wrong, which can lead to the oven not heating at all or the temperature in the oven cavity being significantly inaccurate. Replacing the defective control board is your best option.
The Gas Safety Valve regulates when gas is and isn’t released into your oven. If the component is working properly, the safety valve will open when the oven igniter begins to glow white-hot. A malfunctioning gas safety valve won’t allow gas into the oven, even after the igniter is hot enough to ignite the gas. While a defective safety valve can happen, it is a rare occurrence, meaning you should rule out more common malfunctions first. However, if you do discover the gas safety valve is behind you non-heating oven, replacing the component is the only way to fix the problem.
An oven that won’t heat can turn your dinner plans into a complete disaster, especially when the malfunction hits right before a dinner party. If you’re dealing with a non-heating oven and you can’t figure out which component is causing the issue, please contact us today to schedule an appointment with one of our appliance repair technicians.

Don’t Forget to Vote!

Alex HNews

At Fred’s Appliance, we encourage all of our staff to vote.  We are committed to this traditional citizen practice to where we designate time for all of our staff to participate.

Our entire staff will have a late start on Voting Day this year to ensure they get the right to have their voices heard.  We encourage all businesses in the Cleveland area to follow the same practice.

How to Replace the Inlet Sump in Your GE Dishwasher

Alex HDishwasher Repair

The inlet sump in your GE dishwasher model GSD6660GSS is attached to the bottom of the dishwasher tub. Its main purpose is to collect water for the pump. Puddles underneath and around your dishwasher are the most common symptom of a faulty inlet sump. Replacing the part is the only way to stop the leak from damaging your appliance and your kitchen floor.

How to Replace an Intel Sump in Your Dishwasher

During any type of appliance repair, safety should be your number one concern. That being said, before you swap out the old inlet sump for a new one, unplug your dishwasher and shut off its water supply. Safety goggles and work gloves should always be worn while you work on repairing an appliance.
  1. Start your repair by disconnecting the fill line and drain hose from underneath your sink. Place a towel down to catch any water that drips out. The fill line is connected to the hot water valve. To detach the line, use a 5/8″ wrench. Once you have removed the fill line, grab your 5/16 ” nut driver to loosen the clamp securing the drain hose. After you’ve created enough slack, pull the hose off the drain or garbage disposal.
  2. Open your dishwasher door and take out the lower rack. To remove the spray arm from the locking hub, lift it up and rotate it counter-clockwise. After the spray arm is out of the way, take out the locking hub and remove the fine filter by pressing down and then pulling up on it.
  3. Disconnect the water supply line from the spray arm base by disengaging the locking tab on the side of the supply line. Once the line is no longer attached, rotate the base counter-clockwise to remove it from the dishwasher tub.
  4. The filter that covers the inlet sump is now visible. Before you can remove the filter, you’ll need to release the filter cover. On each side of the cover you’ll find two locking tabs. Using a flat head screwdriver, push on the tabs facing you, and pull the cover off the filter. Now squeeze the locking tabs on each side of the filter and lift it up. Once the filter leading to the inlet sump is out of the way, you can remove the coarse filter by simply picking it up and taking it out of your dishwasher.
  5. Unthread the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher to the countertop. Then, pull the dishwasher from underneath the cabinet. Place a towel on the floor, and carefully lay the dishwasher on its side.
  6. Find the drain pump, and disconnect the wires running to its terminals. Loosen the clamp securing the drain pump to the inlet sump with a 5/16″ nut driver. Next, unthread the nut that holds the drain hose on the drain pump, and pull the hose off the pump. Remove the screws securing the pump to the dishwasher frame and lift the drain pump out of the inlet sump. Take off the clamp that holds the sump and drain pump together.
  7. Now you can remove the sensor from the inlet sump. Loosen the clamp securing the sensor to the sump with your nut driver, and pull the sensor out of the sump. Don’t forget to slide the clamp off the inlet sump and set it aside.
  8. Disconnect the inlet sump from the circulation pump. First, loosen the clamp and then unthread the screws holding the upper and lower sump brackets onto the dishwasher frame. Finally, remove the inlet sump from the dishwasher tub and the circulation pump.
  9. Grab your new inlet sump, and slide on the clamp that secures the connection between the circulation pump and the sump. Attach the sump to the circulation pump, and line up the inlet sump with the opening in the dishwasher tub. Reconnect the upper and lower brackets to the tub frame and tighten the clamp holding the sump and circulation pump together.
  10. Before reinserting the sensor, slip the clamp you removed earlier back onto the inlet sump. Push the sensor into the sump and tighten the clamp to ensure the sensor does not fall out.
  11. Place the drain pump clamp back on the inlet sump before reinstalling the pump. Push the pump into the sump, and reattach the mounting screws to secure the drain pump to the dishwasher frame. Slide the drain hose onto the pump, and tighten its clamp to guarantee the connection is secure. Reconnect the drain pump wires to the pump terminals
  12. Stand the dishwasher up and feed the fill line and drain hose back through your kitchen cabinet. Then, push your dishwasher halfway underneath your counter. Once your appliance is in place, open your sink cabinet and pull on the fill line and drain hose to ensure they aren’t caught on anything. Stand back up, and finish pushing your dishwasher under your counter. Secure your appliance to the cabinet with the two mounting screws you removed earlier.
  13. Go back underneath your sink, and reattach the drain hose. Use your 5/16″ nut driver to tighten the clamp on the hose. Next, reinstall the fill line to the hot water valve with your 5/8″ wrench.
  14. Open your dishwasher door and start reassembling the inside of your appliance. First, put the coarse filter back in, and then reinsert the filter that runs to the inlet sump. Make sure the filter snaps into place before you reinstall the filter cover.
  15. Now screw the spray arm base back in and reconnect it to the water supply line. Once the base is secure, put the fine filter back on, and reattach the locking hub to the top of the spray arm base. Push the spray arm onto the spray arm base, and rotate it clockwise. Finally, insert the lower dish rack and close your dishwasher door.
  16. Plug-in your dishwasher and turn on the appliance’s water supply. To test your newly repaired dishwasher, fill it with a load of dirty dishes and run them through a wash cycle. If your floor is puddle free at the end of the cycle, your repair was a success.
If you have questions about any appliances in your home, please contact us today and one of our highly trained repair technicians will be happy to help you.