How to Repair a Washing Machine That Will Not Drain

Alex HWasher RepairLeave a Comment

Do your clothes seem wetter than usual after pulling them from the washer?
Are your clothes taking longer than usual to dry?
If you are experiencing either of these symptoms, it could be an indication that the washing machine is not completely draining.

How to Test a Washing Machine That Does Not Drain

Read on as this may not be as serious a problem as it appears. Let’s try a simple test to determine your washer’s drain speed.
  • With the washtub full of water and clothes – maybe it already is – set the cycle timer to final spin.
  • Shut the lid and let the final spin cycle run for at least 90 seconds. Please note that the length of time it takes a washer to drain will vary from one model to another. The important thing is to run as complete of a cycle as possible.
  • Open the lid and check the tub.
  • If it is not completely empty, the machine may have a clogged or kinked drain hose line.

How to Inspect, Repair or Replace Drain Hoses

Tools Needed: Spring Clamp Pliers or Channel Lock Pliers
  • Before beginning any work, unplug the washer from its power source and shut off both the hot and cold water.
  • Remove the rear panel which will give you access to the drain hose.
  • The hose you are looking for is attached to the water pump and the bottom of the frame of the washer.
  • Have a small bucket ready to capture any water remaining in the hose and pump.
  • Remove the top spring clamp first with either the spring clamp or channel lock pliers. Be aware that water remaining in the pump and hose will leak out.
  • Remove the bottom part of the hose.
  • Inspect the hose and if it is in good condition, manipulate and reshape the hose back on to the water pump fitting in such a way as to ensure there are no kinks.
  • If the hose is worn or damaged, replace it.
  • Ensure the hose does not rub against the transmission pulley.
Fill the tub with water and set the timer to final spin. The washer should drain all of the water but in case this did not solve the problem or that your machine did not have a kinked hose, let’s take a look at another troubleshooter. The above repair was performed on a Whirlpool top-loader, belt-driven, washing machine.

Drain Clogged or Defective Water Pump?

The following troubleshooter guide is for the Whirlpool Cabrio, model # WTW6400SW3. The machine will not drain because either the drain is clogged, or the water pump has failed.
The tools you will need for this inspection are a putty knife, flat-head screwdriver, pliers, 7/16 socket, and a ¼ inch nut driver for your drill.
Remember to unplug the machine from its power source!

How to Gain Access to the Water Pump Drain

  • Using the putty knife, release the tabs that hold the top in place.
  • Tape the lid shut to prevent it from flopping around and banging into the wall.
  • Lift the top up
  • Release the tabs that hold the round band that sits on top of the tub. Remove and place aside.
  • Remove the agitator by popping off the center cap at the bottom of the tub.
  • Using a 7/16 socket, remove the nut that holds the agitator in place. Remove the agitator and set aside.
  • Lift the tub out of the unit and lay aside. Now you have access to the drain and pump area.
  • Reach through the water and begin searching for foreign objects. The pump and drain sit mostly in the upper right-hand corner.
  • If you were able to remove any foreign objects from the drain area, start suspecting that it’s the water pump that needs to be replaced. But wait because you need to perform one more test before you know for sure.
  • Plug the machine back in. On the control panel, set to final spin and push the drain button.
  • If the water pump comes back on and the water drains from the tub, then you have solved your problem. Button up the machine and do a load of laundry!
  • But if the water did not drain, and the pump still sounds like it’s trying to activate but doesn’t, you need to replace the water pump.

How to Remove and Replace a Water Pump in a Whirlpool Cabrio Top-Loader

Removing and replacing a water pump may seem like an intimidating project but it is actually a lot easier than it sounds.
When working on any appliance, remember to use common sense safety procedures. Common hazards to be aware of when replacing a water pump are such things as sharp edges, electrical, gas and fire, heavy lifting, water leaking, and working around fragile components.
The tools you will need for the following repair are a #2 Phillips screwdriver, ¼ inch flat head screwdriver, channel locks or the spring clamp pliers.

Removing the Water Pump

  • Locate the two screws to the upper rear of the unit, one on each side just behind the control panel.
  • Using the #2 screwdriver, loosen but don’t remove, the two screws.
  • Tilt the control panel.
  • Disconnect the black wire harness from the lid switch.
  • Locate and release the two clips, one on each side on top of the unit.
  • Open the washer lid and grasp the middle base of the cabinet and pull it towards you.
  • The water pump is located at the bottom of the machine under the washing basket.
  • With the flat head screwdriver, release the two pump retainers that hold the cover over the water pump.
  • Pull retainers from the pump and set aside.
  • Release and slide the spring clamps about 4 inches down each hose so they are positioned off the pump flanges.
  • Before removing the hoses completely from the water pump, place a bucket under the water pump and hoses.
  • Pull and twist hoses off the pump.
  • Drain all the water from the pump and hoses into the bucket.

Replacing the Water Pump

  • Note that the inner notch on the water pump is keyed to fit one-way only.
  • Slide the larger hose on to the larger port of the water pump. Should be the top hose and port. Ensure the hose is flush against the stop on the water pump motor shaft.
  • Do not replace spring clamps until the water pump is securely in place.
  • Do not force the water pump on to the shaft or you may cause damage not covered by any warranty.
  • Secure the pump in place with the pump retainer clips.
  • Ensure the hoses are not kinked or twisted in any way.
  • Reapply clamps and ensure they are securely placed in the water pump ports.
  • Reinstall the cabinet and control panel and you are ready to go!
Now that you’re getting to know your Whirlpool washing machine, maybe there is something else we can help you with. We love to interact with our visitors so give us a shout sometime.

How to Replace Your Bosch Dishwasher’s Circulation Pump and Motor Assembly

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One of the most common calls you’ll get about a malfunctioning dishwasher is about dirty dishes. There are a lot of reasons why a dishwasher might stop doing a complete job. A malfunctioning circulation pump and motor assembly might be the culprit behind it, and it’s one of the hardest parts to reach in the appliance.

What Does the Circulation Pump and Motor Assembly Do?

This piece of hardware controls the flow of water that exits the dishwasher’s spray arms. It is controlled by the electric system and washer settings, but it’s also a mechanical part that moves and forces water out of the spray arms at different pressure settings. That means there are different triggers that could force the pump and motor assembly to break.
One of the clearest signs of a broken assembly is dirty dishes. If water isn’t hitting the dishes with enough force to rinse away food or soap, then the pump may not be doing its job. However, anything from a poor dish arrangement to clogged holes in the spray arm can cause the same problem. Be sure to investigate other common causes or ask your customer for more details before replacing the part. Once you decide the assembly is at fault, order the replacement part. You can identify it as part number 1106293 for older Bosch models and 442548 for Thermador dishwashers.

How to Replace the Circulation Pump and Motor Assembly Step by Step:

1. Unplug the dishwasher and turn off the water.

Every appliance repair should start with you removing the power source unless you need the appliance powered on during the course of the job. Replacing a broken circulation pump and motor assembly involves disassembling both wire harnesses and water hoses, so both inputs need to be removed to keep you and the surrounding area safe.

2. Remove the base and outer door panels.

You need to access the dishwasher door’s interior parts. Locate the base panel under the dishwasher door. Loosen the two screws holding the panel in place, and set it aside.
To remove the outer door panel, first, open the door and remove the six screws along the interior perimeter of the door to release the panel. Next, shut the door and pull the bottom of the outer door panel away from the machine. Then you can slide the panel down and remove it from the remaining door assembly. Set it aside. Loosen and remove the inner access panel between the base panel and the outer door panel, too, for complete access to the machine’s parts.

3. Pull out the dishwasher.

Before you move the dishwasher, disconnect the water line and drain hose under the sink. There is probably water in the drain lines so lay down a towel and have a container ready to stop any spills. Then loosen the two screws and mounting brackets holding the dishwasher in place against the countertop. Grab the sides of the machine and gently wiggle or slide it free.

4. Disconnect the interior parts around the base of the machine.

Remove the side covers on the left and right sides of the machine. Then remove the hinge link covers, which are the white plastic panels near the front. Once you set them aside, you will be able to see the door cable hooks that were underneath the covers. Remove them and loosen the screws holding the base of the dishwasher to the cabinet.

5. Open up the inside of the machine.

Remove the lower dishrack and the spray arms. Unscrew the filter basket and fine filter, then set them aside. Also, unscrew and remove the spray arm support and the two sump supports before shutting the door. Lay the dishwasher on its back without pinching any loose hoses.

6. Disassemble the dishwasher’s base to access the assembly.

This step involves a lot of disassembly and parts. If each step feels overwhelming or confusing, stop and snap a picture of the details. This will help you reassemble the machine and reverse your steps.
Disconnect the sump hose from the water inlet and sump, then twist it out of the way without fully removing it. Gently wiggle the base of the dishwasher so it pulls slightly away from the rest of the machine. This is the section with all of the hoses and parts that you loosened in step five. While you shouldn’t completely remove it, you need space to remove and install the circulation pump and motor assembly part.
Remove the drain pump by pressing the latch and twisting it free. Set it aside without removing the attached wire harness. Then remove the circulation pump the same way. Remove the drain outlet hose. This should let you pull the circulation pump assembly out of the base. Move it carefully and set it on top of the dishwasher without pulling at the attached wire harnesses.
Clean the sump’s gasket while the machine is open. This step isn’t necessary, but dishwashers can develop a lot of buildup. It’s unlikely the dishwasher will be disassembled to this extent again, so now is the perfect time for some quick cleaning and maintenance.
Remove the clamp holding the circulation pump to the heater assembly. If possible, set the clamp aside for later use. But some clamps are not reusable, so bring a spare clamp with you to the repair site.
Disconnect all of the wire assemblies. At this point in the disassembly, take a picture. It’s hard to remember where each wire harness should connect to the assembly, and having a picture on hand means you don’t have to worry about incorrect wiring.
Pull the assembly free of the heating and sump. It should come apart with enough pressure. Then pry the pump seal away from the top of the part for later use. Also, remove the rubber straps. The goal of this step is to isolate the circulation pump and motor assembly. The ordered item contains the assembly part only, so you’ll need to save the seals, straps, and, if possible, clamp for reuse on the replacement part.

7. Replace the assembly.

Put the sump seal back in position. Then put the clamp, or a new clamp on the sleeve for later. Attach the assembly to the heater and sump by the pump ports. If the arms won’t fit, use an approved lubricant or soapy water to reduce the friction. Then put the rubber mounting straps back in position and tighten the clamp around the arm. Next, reconnect the wire harnesses in the exact configuration as previously.

8. Insert the new assembly.

Secure the part inside the base of the dishwasher using the rubber straps. Then reconnect the sump outlet hose and snap the drain pump back in position. Once it’s aligned, twist in clockwise for a tight seal. Once everything is positioned correctly, push the base of the machine back against the dishwasher. Make sure you aren’t pinching any parts.
Then twist the water inlet hose back around and reattach it to its ports.

9. Begin reconstructing the dishwasher.

Set the whole machine upright once more. Resecure the base of the dishwasher by inserting and retightening the screws in the front and back of the base. Then open the dishwasher door and replace the spray arm parts and filters you removed earlier. Snap the spray arm into position and put the dishrack in the machine.
Next, snap the door locks and hinge covers, and side covers back in place on each side of the machine.

10. Put the dishwasher back in place.

Carefully push the machine back under the counter and resecure the mounting screws to lock it in place against the countertop. Then reattach the hoses under the sink.
Finish your reassembly by:
  • screwing in the inner access panel,
  • sliding the outer door panel into place and then tightening the interior perimeter screws, and
  • resecuring the base panel.
Once you turn on the water connection and power, the dishwasher should now be able to clean each load of dishes without leaving behind residue. Ensure that the machine turns on and the cycle starts properly before leaving. This repair job involves a lot of disassembly, so it’s important to make sure everything is in working order, and that the hoses don’t leak, before leaving.
For more appliance repair tips and appliance updates, go to Fred’s Appliance Service here.

How to Troubleshoot and Repair a Washing Machine that Won’t Spin

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Some symptoms of a malfunctioning washing machine are more subtle than others. But the symptom of a washing machine that won’t initiate its spin cycle is usually a wash basket full of water. Yikes!
It could be as simple as the lid switch not actuating, a worn or damaged drive belt, or maybe the transmission decided to give up the ghost during one of the cycles.
The following troubleshooting and repair guide for a defective lid switch can apply to many different brands, however, this guide is specific to the Whirlpool Model LSN1000HQ0.

Defective Lid Switch

The lid switch is a safety device and depending on how your machine is programmed it could activate in one of three ways. When you open or close the lid you should hear the sound of the lid switch activating.
  • When the lid is opened some washers have lid switches that stop the washing cycle completely.
  • Other models disrupt power during the spin cycle only.
  • Some machines allow the washer to fill and agitate while the lid is opened.
If your wash basket is full of water, how are you going to remove it? You could scoop it out by hand with the largest container you can find but that would take the better part of a day and leave you frustrated. We’re as sure as you are that you have better things to do. You wonder if there is an easier way.
Instead of removing the water one bucketful at a time, grab a flat-head screwdriver. Open the lid and with the control set to spin, locate the small rectangular hole located on the top right of the machine. Use the screwdriver to depress and actuate the spin cycle. Your washer will remove the water and if you have any wash in the tub, you can cycle it until the water is removed enough for you to place your wash in the dryer.
Before beginning any work on your washing machine or any appliance for that matter you need to do two things:
  • Unplug the washing machine from its power source
  • Turn off both hot and cold water valves
It is best to wait for at least 5-minutes before beginning your work. So go have a cup of coffee, read the paper, check your Facebook, Twitter, or Instagram accounts. The reason for the wait is that some electricity remains stored in the capacitor and you could still receive a shock.

How to Remove and Replace the Lid Switch

  • Remove the two screws behind the control panel cover
  • Lift cover to gain access to the lid switch
  • Locate the lid switch to the right and disconnect the wire harness
  • Place a multimeter’s leads on the brown and gray wires and check for continuity
  • If there is no continuity, you have found your problem. Replace the lid switch
  • Locate and remove the two clips that hold the cabinet in place; you will find them to the rear and at the top
  • Pull the cabinet from the rear toward the front and remove. It should slip right off
  • Now there is clear access to the switch
  • Sometimes the brackets that hold the switch in place, break, leaving the lid switch to dangle with no hope of it actuating your machine
  • Using a 5/16 nut driver, remove the ground screw that also helps hold the switch in place
  • Lift the lid and remove the other screw from the top
  • Depress the two tabs that will allow clearance to remove the switch and its harness
  • Remove the clips for the wires and pop them out
  • Now the switch is free and can be removed
  • Replacing the lid switch is a simple as following these instructions in reverse

Defective Drive Belt

The drive belt is what connects the clutch and the transmission. The belt drives the transmission which powers the agitator and the spinning basket. It should be inspected annually.
Does your washer start and then stop? Do you smell burning rubber when your washer is in operation? If your machine is experiencing either of these symptoms, the drive belt could be loose or damaged.
How to Inspect, Tighten, Remove, and Replace a Drive Belt
  • Remember Safety First! Unplug the machine from its power source and turn off the hot and cold water.
  • Remove the rear panel
  • Visually inspect the belt for damage
  • If the belt appears to be in good condition, check its tension by depressing the belt mid-way between the two pulleys
  • If you can push it further than ½ inch, it is too loose and needs an adjustment

How to Tighten the Drive Belt

  • Using a socket and ratchet, loosen the 3 nuts under the motor mount bracket. Do not remove the nuts
  • The motor should be loose enough to manipulate
  • With one hand pull the motor to the rear and tighten the left nut first
  • Tightening the remaining two nuts will increase the tension on the belt. Push on the belt the same way as before to see if it depresses further than the ½ inch recommended tension.

How to Remove and Replace the Drive Belt

  • Remove the upper clamp from the coupling
  • With socket and ratchet, loosen but don’t remove the 3 nuts on the motor mount bracket
  • Push the motor toward the center of the washer
  • Remove the old belt and place the new belt into the transmission and clutch pulley grooves
  • With one hand, pull the motor to the rear of the washer and tighten the left nut first
  • Tighten the remaining two nuts
  • Recheck the drive belt tension with the ½ inch test
  • Reassemble the pump coupling and clamp
  • Reassemble the washing machine, plug it in and do a load of laundry!

Defective Transmission

The transmission generates power from the motor to the agitator and wash basket. It generates both agitation and spin. If the washer appears to be leaking oil, or if the agitation or spin cycles are not working, the transmission needs to be replaced. This particular repair will take some time to complete.

How to Remove and Replace the Transmission

If your washer is equipped with a transmission boot, it will need to be replaced.
Watch this 5-minute video for a detailed tutorial on how to remove the transmission boot, including the removal and replacement of the transmission.
  • After the boot is removed, remove the six bolts that anchor the transmission. There are three bolts on either side
  • Slide the transmission to the rear of the washer to free the drive belt. Inspect the belt for wear and tear
  • Lift the transmission out of the washing basket. Be careful, as the transmission is heavy
  • Place one of the bolts in the right rear hole in the new transmission and lower into the washer
  • Turn that bolt by hand but not so tight you can’t manipulate the transmission into place
  • This one bolt will act as a pivot
  • Turn the transmission toward the right rear of the washer
  • Reinstall the drive belt in its groove around the transmission pulley
  • Realign transmission to the remaining holes
  • Replace and tighten the five remaining bolts
  • Refer to the previous video to complete the assembly
We hope this has helped explain some of the more simple repairs for a washing machine that has stopped spinning or agitating. But we understand that not everyone has the time or is cut out for do-it-yourself projects and need to find a company who does. Someone who is an expert in appliance repair. Do you have something else you’d like to discuss? Reach out to us today and we’ll reach right back to you.

It’s Spring Cleaning Time For Your Washer And Dryer

Alex HWasher RepairLeave a Comment

How often are your washing machine and your dryer used in your home? Do your washing machine and the dryer go through workouts on a daily basis or is it only used a few times out of the week? Regardless of how often your appliances are used, your washing machine and dryers are investments. When you make an investment, you want to make sure you take care of it, right?

Unfortunately, your appliances may have a few problems that could cause you to miss a few loads of laundry. Appliance problems can also result in higher electric bills and safety issues. If you cannot remember the last time you showed your washing machine and your dryer some attention, we encourage you to take some time to do this now.

Washer

There are several problems you could face when it comes to your washer include failing to drain, spin, or agitate. In addition to these problems, your washing machine’s door may not lock properly and you may find water leaking from your washer. These problems can arise for a variety of reasons. Thankfully, there are skilled repair professionals in your area that can diagnose these problems and repair them as soon as possible. One of the things we encourage you to do is to inspect your fill and drain hose installations.  If you are not sure what to do, we can do it for you!

Dryer

There are some common issues that many people face when it comes to their dryers. Some of the problems include the following: the dryer is not heating, the dryer is not spinning, or the dryer is not responding at all. As with the washer, the dryer problems can also be caused for a variety of reasons. If you discover that there are things causing problems with your dryer’s airflow will create major problems for your dryer, including causing a fire. You should make sure your lint filters are cleaned after each load and you should have your vents cleaned at least one time a year.

Are you in need of an appliance repair? Contact us today for more information.