What Should You Look For When Your Top-Load Washer Doesn’t Drain

Alex HWasher Repair Comments

One of the most common, and the most frustrating, problems with top-loading washing machines is when the machines won’t drain. If your Whirlpool LSR5132JQ1 washing machine fills with water but won’t empty even when the lid is firmly shut, here are three potential causes of the problem. Each one is easy to test; all you need is a multimeter and a container for draining excess water.

  • Is it a broken drain pump? When this part receives an electrical signal from the control, it will start to drain water from the tub of your washer to a drain pipe; some machines have a separate motor attached to the drain pump, and this part can fail separately from the machine itself. If a small piece of clothing or debris gets in the way of the pump or drain motor, the turbines or internal workings won’t be able to turn and the part will break. Check the drain pump’s individual motor for electrical continuity and, if the connection is negative, replace the part (part #3363394).
  • Do you have a broken or blocked drain hose? If the drain hose is kinked or full of obstructions such as cloth or debris, the water won’t be able to drain. Make sure the hose is straight and that it is clear. If you can’t straighten it or the hose has cracked along the previous bend, you will need to replace the hose.
  • Is the lid switch broken? A broken lid switch can be the culprit for a variety of underlying problems because most machines have a failsafe of only starting the next step in its cycle when the door switch is pressed. Use a multimeter to check the electrical continuity of the door switch.

Sometimes, the bulk of the work in repairing a faulty appliance is finding what is causing the problem: each malfunction might be caused by any number of internal failures. If you’re still troubleshooting your washer and can’t find the problem, go to Fred’s Appliance Service for more suggestions and common causes behind a washer that won’t drain.

How to Safely Remove the Dryer Drum When Making Repairs

Alex HDryer Repair Comments

Dryers are compact machines with most of the parts organized along the bottom of the machine. While the lower access panel(if it has one) lets you reach most of the pieces, visibility can be a little tricky. The easiest way to get full access to the machinery in your common Maytag dryer to is to remove the upper front panel of your Maytag machine and take out the drum. Whether you need to replace the high-limit thermostat (part #489P3) or the band around the drum is cracking, here’s how to safely and easily get into the inner workings of your dryer.

  1. Unplug the dryer. You will be detaching wires during this procedure and the machine should have no access to electricity. Anytime you are repairing or dismantling an appliance, be sure to unplug it or turn off its circuit breaker, even if you don’t think you will be touching any electrical components.
  2. Remove the lower and upper front access panel. The upper panel will have door switch wires, so take note of the wires’ orientation before removal.  If it is a solid front panel, the top will need to be removed first using a putty knife.
  3. Remove the top mounting screw so you can swing the main top panel out of the way.
  4. Disconnect the light assembly wires and remove the front bulkhead mounting screws so you can detach the bulkhead. This is the flat part in front of the drum.
  5. Unhook the belt from the pulley and the motor shaft. These parts are under the drum, and once the belt is fully detached you can lift the drum free. Grab the front edge of the drum and the top of the belt to safely carry the drum to the side; it is large and heavy, so make sure you have space nearby to store it as you’re making repairs.

Removing the drum is not an essential step to most dryer repairs, but getting it out of the way can make your job much easier by giving you a better view of the parts below. In order to reassemble your dryer, just reattach the belt to the pulley and motor shaft, and then work through the steps backward. Make sure your wires are inserted correctly according to the pictures you took along the way or according to the manual. If your dryer isn’t working right, go to Fred’s Appliance Service for tips on how to diagnose the problem and step-by-step repair guides.

How to Replace the High-Limit Thermostat in Your Maytag Dryer

Alex HDryer Repair Comments


Is your dryer not turning on? Or does it start up for just a second before falling still? If this is the problem with your machine, then the most likely culprit is the high-limit thermostat along with the bottom of the machine. Whether it’s due to old age and wear, or the part can’t maintain an electrical connection, replacing this piece can keep your dryer working for much longer instead of you needing to replace the whole machine. Here’s how to quickly repair your dryer on your own:

Before you get started, you need to order the part. While physical stores and repair shops may have the part in stock because your appliance is a Maytag, buying the part online is both cheaper and easier. Look for a high-limit thermostat with the part #489P3. Once you have your part, complete each step below.

  1. When you’re making repairs or investigating any electrical appliance, be sure to turn off the power. Some appliances, like dryers and ovens, you can simply unplug while others require you to flip the circuit breaker. Even if you aren’t changing any electrical parts, turning off the power is the most important step in staying safe.
  2. Unscrew the lower access panel in the front. You can use a driver to remove the screws along the edge of the panel. If you want to be able to change the part easily and with better visibility than the lower access panel allows, you can also remove the drum via the front panel. This panel and the drum has more moving parts and wires than the lower access panel, so detach each part carefully and take note of the orientation of the wires. If this is one of the first times you have taken apart a Maytag dryer, take pictures of each connection with your phone so you can correctly insert the wires and bands during reassembly.
  3. Disconnect the wires from the thermostat and remove the screws to release the old thermostat from the burner tube.
  4. Align the new part and screw it in. Then reconnect the wires, using your pictures to make sure the wires are oriented correctly.
  5. Reinstall the drum while taking particular care to align it on the rollers and resecure the belt.  Then, reattach all of the wires while taking care to match the orientations exactly according to the pictures.
  6. Reattach the top of the machine and replace the front panels, including the door switch wires, and the lower access panel.

Whenever you’re installing a replacement part in a major appliance, the bulk of the work is in reaching the old part in the right way. So be sure to take pictures each step of the way and, if you get stuck or want to double-check your work before powering on your dryer, check Fred’s Appliance Service for more tips.

How to Replace The Door Switch on Your GE Refrigerator Model GTE21GSHSS

Alex HRefrigerator Repair Comments


If the light is out in your GE refrigerator model GTE21GSHSS and a new bulb didn’t fix the problem, you are most likely dealing with a malfunctioning door switch. Luckily, replacing your fridge’s door switch is an uncomplicated repair, and should only take a few minutes. To help you accomplish this do-it-yourself project, we’ve created an easy to follow the guide below.

How to Replace Your Refrigerator’s Door Switch

Tools Needed

Safety First: Before starting any type of refrigerator repair, unplug your appliance. Wearing work gloves and safety goggles is a must. Please read through the step by step guide provided before tackling this repair. If at any point you don’t feel confident, stop what you are doing and call a local appliance repair professional to complete the job.

  1. Open your refrigerator’s fresh food door and locate the door switch. Once you’ve found the switch, examine it to find out whether there is a screw holding it in place or not. If there is, use a screwdriver to remove it, and if there isn’t carefully pry the switch out of its housing with a putty knife. You may want to tape the edge of the knife to avoid damaging the inside of your appliance.
  2. Gently pull the switch out to expose an inch or two of the wires. There will be either two wires, meaning the switch only controls your refrigerator’s light or four wires, which indicates the switch controls the light and the fan. Before you begin detaching the wires from the switch, label each one. This will make putting them back where they belong easier. To remove the wires, carefully pull them out by the connectors.
  3. Connect the wires to the new door switch’s terminals. Once the wires are secure, either snap the switch back into its housing or reattach the screw you removed earlier.
  4. Plug your refrigerator back in and test the door switch by opening and closing the fresh food door.

If the light is still malfunctioning in your refrigerator or you have concerns about another appliance in your home, please contact us today and we’ll be happy to help you.