5 Top Destinations to Visit in Cleveland

Alex HCleveland

With all the options available, finding something fun and interesting to do in Cleveland isn’t very difficult for residents or visitors. Whether attending a professional sporting event or sight-seeing the tallest building in Ohio (Key Tower), they’ll find many things to do and see in Cleveland. In an effort to help narrow down the options, let’s examine 5 top destinations to visit in Cleveland.

Cleveland, Ohio:

“The Forest City” (nickname from the 1830s) is located on the edge of Lake Erie and is the second largest city in Ohio with nearly 400k residents; the Greater Cleveland area has a population of over 2 million residents and in 2016 attracted around 18 million visitors.

1. Rock & Roll Hall of Fame:

Cleveland is home to the one and only Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, due in large part to a local disc jockey, Alan Freed, coining the popular term in the early 1950s. This and other notable rock & roll history can be found at this popular destination.
Residents of Cleveland can get free admission to this venue through the CLE VIP program, which started June 23rd, 2018 – there are discounts for Northeast Ohio residents as well. As for out of town visitors, the gift shop is free to visit and tickets are $23 for general admission.
Visitors can peruse the 323 inductees or attend a concert at the Rock Hall’s plaza stage where many live concerts are free. Attendees can enjoy the beer garden and food trucks as they listen to today’s live versions of Rock & Roll music.
Visitors can delve into the stories of fans, insights from inductees, and other fascinating related information about the history and present state of Rock & Roll. With seven levels of exhibits to experience, this popular destination in Cleveland will keep visitors enthralled with the details of this special music genre.

2. Cleveland Museum of Art:

For museum and art lovers, the Cleveland Museum of Art is one of the top destinations to visit in the city. Over a century old (founded in 1913 and opened in 1916), this popular cultural center a few miles east of downtown Cleveland welcomes visitors with free admission and over 45,000 objects to peruse.
The CMA also hosts various events throughout the year, including music performances, films, festivals, lectures, and tours. Visitors can also take advantage of their art, learning, and research resources, including the Ingalls library (with over 500,000 volumes), CMA Thinker (the museum’s blog), and museum archives.
In-between gazing at the traditional and digital exhibits and enjoying the unique art resources, visitors can take a break and order some great food at the Provenance Restaurant and Cafe. Afterward, they can enjoy similar destinations nearby (within half a mile), including:
    • Cleveland Institute of Music
    • Crawford Auto-Aviation Collection
    • Cleveland Museum of Natural History
    • Cleveland Botanical Garden
    • Museum of Contemporary Art
    • Dittrick Museum of Medical History
    • Severance Hall (next destination’s winter venue)

3. Cleveland Orchestra:

Residents and visitors of Cleveland have the chance to experience the world-renown Cleveland Orchestra. The classical music performed by over a hundred members of the Cleveland Orchestra is a unique and harmonious expression of this cultured American city.
The Cleveland Orchestra is acknowledged as one of the world’s best orchestras; they have individual and group performances at two main venues:
    • Severance Hall (Winter home)
    • Blossom Amphitheater
They also perform at other special venues within the region and worldwide. In partnership with the city and other local organizations, the Cleveland Orchestra also provides educational programs and resources for the local community and elsewhere.
An article found on thisiscleveland.com shares some important details:
“An informal Fridays @ 7 series mixes Cleveland Orchestra concerts and world music at the orchestra’s historic winter home, Severance Hall, on select Friday nights. On top of that, anyone under 18 can come for free to select concerts.
These elite musicians also hold ‘residencies’ in Cleveland’s funkiest neighborhoods that feature a string of free performances in unexpected places.”
Residents and visitors to the “Forest City” would be doing themselves a disservice by not checking out the Cleveland Orchestra, where they’ll find quality classical and world music, such as Jazz, symphonic, pop, opera, ballet, and more.
The Severance Hall is located a few blocks from the last destination, The Cleveland Museum, and the Blossom Music Center (amphitheater) is located within the Cuyahoga Valley National Park just north of Akron.

4. Cleveland West Side Market:

In-between visiting all these destinations, residents and visitors to Cleveland can stop by the West Side Market where they’ll find over a 100 food and drink vendors to satisfy their hunger, thirst, pallet, and pantry. This is the Cleveland’s oldest public market with origins dating back to the 1840s.
Visitors can experience some culture and history while shopping ( produce, meats, seafood, baked goods, dairy, nuts, herbs, etc.) or sitting down to eat a variety of ethnic foods; also, they can enjoy being in the historic yellow brick market house (1912 opened to public) and massive interior concourse.
Just minutes west of downtown Cleveland, the indoor/outdoor West Side Market is in a great central location, and with free parking for 90 minutes, this destination is more accessible and feasible for residents and visitors.

5. Playhouse Square:

Every metropolis must have at least a few cultural iconic destinations; as for Cleveland, one of these is Playhouse Square, where over a million people visit every year. With over a thousand events a year, its no wonder this Broadway show venue is such a popular destination.
Saved from destruction in the 1970s, this downtown destination has become the largest performing arts center outside of New York. This due to the local community members and volunteers that worked to restore and revive this historic space.
Visitors can see and enjoy the 1920’s motif in 5 of the 10 theaters and the world’s largest outdoor chandelier. Performances, classes, and shows can be seen throughout the year, including Tai Chi classes, musicals, Broadway shows, and cinema. They also have an annual retro movie fest in the summer, where patrons can see their favorite old movies on the big screen for only $5.

Conclusion

Cleveland offers residents and visitors many great destinations to see and enjoy throughout the four seasons of the year. The five we’ve examined are only the tip of the proverbial iceberg. Suffice it to say, Cleveland is a great place to live and visit, and these five destinations are some of the top places for visitors and residents to experience and enjoy.
Fred’s Appliance is proud to live in and serve the Greater Cleveland area, where our appliance repair service and academy are located. If interested in learning more please contact us today.

How to Replace Your Whirlpool Washer’s Outer Tub 63849

Alex HWasher RepairLeave a Comment

If your washer is leaking, check the outer tub for a leak. This can be caused by mice damage or a sharp object, like a button or hair clip, getting loose between the inner and outer tubs. Cracks or holes can’t be sealed so you will need to replace the whole outer tub. Order replacement part #63849 for Whirlpool model washers. Then follow these steps to uninstall and replace the broken outer tub:

1. Unplug the washing machine and turn off the water supply lines.

This repair involves disassembling your washing machine. Before you get started, make sure it is completely disconnected from the power source. Also turn off the hot and cold water supplies to prevent leaks and water damage.

2. Remove the control panel.

First, loosen the screws at the corners of the control panel. Remove the edge’s trim if your machine has it. Next, slide the control panel forward toward the front of the machine, and then flip the control panel over so it rests on the back of the machine.
Once you can see the internal parts under the control panel, disconnect the lid switch’s wire harness and use a flathead screwdriver to pry the two metal retaining clips up.

3. Dismantle the machine.

Remove the washing machine body. To do this, open the lid and grab the lip of the body near the tub. You’re going to tilt it forward to remove it, so place your foot against the bottom to secure it and then bring the lip of the body towards you. Lift the body up and pull the body away from the machine. Set it aside.
Next, Loosen the top water hose. Use pliers to pull the wire clamp down and then pull the hose off of the connection point.
After that, remove the vacuum break. Start by grabbing the lower portion and slightly swinging the bottom of the part up towards you. You may have to gently squeeze the plastic form. Once the lower part of the clip is free from the back wall, pull the part down and away to completely free it. Set it aside.
Then, remove the agitator. The agitator is in the middle of the inner tube. Start by pulling the fabric softener dispenser free. Next, pull out the dust cap under the dispenser. Under that, you’ll find the central shaft holding the agitator in place. Loosen the bolt with an extended socket. You may have to hold the base of the tub in place so it doesn’t rotate with the tool. When the bolt is free, pull the whole agitator away. Leave the loose bolt inside the part for now. Remove the spanner nut under the agitator. It should unscrew and come free from the central shaft.
Now you can remove the inner tub. The cover is secured in place by locking tabs around the perimeter. Instead of just pulling up to pull the inner tub away, carefully depress and loosen each of the eight locking tabs so they don’t break. Once each tab is loose, lift the cover away and set it aside. Pull the inner tub up and away.

4. Remove the outer tub.

First, tap the drive block off of the central shaft. Also, wipe the central shaft down with WD40. This will make it easier to slide the seal over the shaft.
Disconnect the outside of the outer tub from any connecting parts. First, disconnect water pressure air hose. Then remove the lower hose from the tub by sliding down the clamp and pulling the hose free of the connection point.
Next, remove the four suspension springs. Start by disconnecting the counterbalance spring from the back of the frame. All you have to do is use a pair of pliers to grab the wire below the spring and pull it taut so you can slip the end free. Then pull the top curve of the wire out of the outer tub’s bracket.
Do the same thing with the three suspension springs arranged around the bottom perimeter of the outer bracket. Set the springs aside. Also, remove the brackets by loosening the screws holding them in place. The back bracket is difficult to reach, so you may have to slide the screwdriver through the holes in the back of the washer.
Pull the outer tub up and away from the central shaft. Set it aside.

5. Install the new outer tub.

Start by removing the old outer tub seal from the old tub and pressing it into the bottom of the new tub. Check the part for tears or wear before you install it. You may need a new one if it’s damaged.
Now you can install the new outer tub.
First, lower the outer tub down around the central shaft. You may have to wiggle it down because of the tight fit from the seal. Make sure the tub is aligned in position by checking that the hose connection point lines up through the hole in the metal plate. The tabs around the bottom edge should also line up with the suspension springs’ brackets.
Next, reinstall the mounting brackets. Slide each bracket’s central tab into place in one hole and then tighten the screw in the other. Repeat this for each bracket.
After that, reinstall the suspension springs. Start with the counterbalance spring by hooking the top wire through the bracket hole. Then use a pair of pliers to pull the spring taut and hook the bottom wire against the frame. Once the counterbalance spring is back in place, reinstall the three remaining springs around the base of the outer tub.
Reconnect the lower drain hose and tighten the clamp.

6. Reinstall the inner tub.

Slide the drive block back over the central shaft. Next, lower the inner tub back into the tub and screw the spanner nut over the shaft on top of the inner tub’s bottom. Make sure the spanner nut is tight.
Next, reinstall the tub cover. Line up the wide depression with the back of the machine where the vacuum break goes. Then line up the cover with each of the eight mounting tabs. Press the cover down and snap it into place.
Hook the vacuum seal back into the rear frame of the washer. Listen for the click of it snapping into position and make sure the bottom of the clips are flush with the frame.
Then reattach the blacktop hose and tighten its clamp. Also, reattach thin pressure hose. It connects to the water level switch at the bottom of the outer tub and has a retaining clip on the side of the tub to hold the length in place.
Reinstall the agitator assembly. Lower the agitator over the central shaft and tighten the bolt. Then snap the dust cap and fabric softener dispenser into place.

7. Reassemble the machine.

Reposition the body over the frame. Lift up the lid to grab the lip, tilt it at a forty-five-degree angle, and lift up the bottom to align it with the base of the frame. It has four locking tabs at the base to hold it in position when you lower it.
Next, resecure the retaining clips on the top of the machine under the control panel. Reconnect the wire harness for the lid switch. Then flip the control panel back over, slide it into a locked position, and retighten its screws.
Plug your washer back in and turn on the water.
If you want to find more appliance repair procedures or troubleshoot other appliance problems, go to Fred’s Appliance Service to get started.

How to Replace Your LG Refrigerator’s Evaporator Fan Motor

Alex HRefrigerator RepairLeave a Comment

If your LG refrigerator or freezer is too warm, that’s a strong sign that something is wrong with the cooling system. One of the most common culprits is a broken evaporator fan motor, and it will make a lot of noise when it’s not operating correctly.
If you like handling your own appliance repair, this is a repair job that requires a lot of disassembly but no special tools. All you need to do is order a replacement evaporator motor, replacement part #EAU61644102 for LG models, and follow these instructions:

1. Unplug the refrigerator.

Before you start any appliance repair, always make sure the appliance is unplugged or its circuit breaker is flipped. Most machines hold a charge even when they’re turned off. This repair procedure requires you to unplug internal electrical components, so unplugging your refrigerator is even more important.

2. Dismantle the freezer section.

The evaporator fan is located in the back of your freezer section, behind the back cover plate. The easiest way to reach it is by removing that back cover.
First, pull out the loose parts. This includes the ice machine bucket, sliding shelves, and any baskets in the section. Set them aside. Next, remove the ice machine itself.
Start by loosening the two screws on the left side panel where the ice machine is hanging. The two screws are supporting the machine. Remove the left one entirely so it hangs at an angle and partially loosen the right screw. Then lift up the ice machine and swing the hanging tabs free of the screw. Next, use a flathead screwdriver to pry the wire harness apart. Then remove the ice machine entirely and set it aside.
Remove the loosened right screw, as well as the three screws holding the left rail. Lift the left rail free of its mounting tabs and remove it. Also, remove the cover plate behind ice machine: it is secured in place by screws and two mounting tabs. Because there are wires threaded through it, you can’t fully remove it. Instead, slide the small cover plate back through the back plate for now.
Now you can remove the back panel. First, locate the tabs holding the back plastic panel in place at the side and top. Grab the panel near each tab and snap it free. This will loosen the panel. Twist it to the left so you have room to pull it completely away. Set it aside.
The internal parts of the freezer section are now visible along the back of the machine. Unplug motor connector wires on the left side. Next, remove the mounting brackets holding up the fan assembly. Take the bracket out of the appliance and set it on a flat work surface.

3. Uninstall the evaporator fan motor.

The mounting bracket is a wide plastic piece that has the evaporator fan in the center. Pry the fan blades assembly away from the center shaft.
Remove the wires from the retaining clips and push the wires to the side where they can’t be damaged. Next, loosen the two screws holding the fan motor’s top cover support in place and set aside. Then you should be able to fully remove the evaporator fan motor. Before you start installing the new part, remove the grommet from the back of the motor so you can reuse it on the replacement part.

4. Install the new evaporator fan motor.

Insert the old grommet on the back central shaft on the motor. Then slide the motor assembly into place on the plastic mounting bracket. Slide the top cover over the shaft on top of the motor, then secure it in place by tightening the two screws. If the length of wire is excessive, use a rubber band to secure the wires halfway between the retaining clip and the wire harness. This will reduce the risk of accidentally pinching or cutting the wires during reassembly.
Secure the motor’s wires to the mounting bracket twice: once with a zip tie, and the second time in the retaining clip on the side. Next, slide the fan blades over the central shaft.

5. Reassemble the refrigerator.

First, position the bracket against the back of the appliance so the insulation strips match the marking on the back. Tighten the screws to secure it in place. Next, reattach the wire harness.
Slide in the back panel. Start by sliding the bottom of the panel into the groove, then push the sides into position. The locking tabs should click when it is fully in position.
Next, retrieve the cover plate from between the machine’s back and the back cover plate. Position it in the hole and firmly press it into place against the locking tabs. Rethread the screws to secure it.
After that, reattach the left railing. The tabs should snap it straight into position. Add the screws you removed earlier to provide additional support.
Then halfway tighten the right support screw for the ice machine. Don’t tighten it flush with the wall because you need part of the length of the screw to hang the ice machine from. Next, reconnect the wire harness. Then hang the ice machine onto the right screw, tighten it and then fully reattach and tighten the left screw.
Add the bins and shelves back into place. Also, slide the ice machine bucket into place. Make sure the ice machine is turned on by flipping the wire into the ‘on’ position so you can begin to refill the ice bucket. Plug the refrigerator back in.
Even once the evaporator fan motor has been replaced, the freezer section needs a full day to cool back down properly and maintain its low temperature. It needs twenty-four hours to fill the ice bucket, which is the best test to ensure the new fan motor is working.
If you have more major appliances that you want to repair or tune-up, go to Fred’s Appliance Service here. You can find more major appliance repair procedures, troubleshooting tips, and general appliance advice.

How to Replace Your GE Cooktop’s Selector Switch WB24X449

Alex HOven RepairLeave a Comment

If the elements on your electric cooktop aren’t working, one of the switches is probably broken. These switches control everything from the element turning on to temperature control. The two most common causes of damage are:
  1. The selector switch shorted out. A surge can break the switch. If water from an overboiled pot or a spill works its way under the knob and to the interior of the cooktop, the part will eventually malfunction.
  2. Physical impact broke the shaft. Your cooktop’s knobs will absorb most of the force if you accidentally hit them with a pot or a pan. But if the shaft breaks, the part needs to be replaced.
Replacing the part takes time, but you can access it with a few simple tools. The repair is also a good time to replace your cooktop’s water-resistant seal. Order a new selector switch, part #WB24X449 if you have a General Electric cooktop, and follow these steps.
Before you get started, make sure you disconnect the power. This repair involves direct manipulation of wiring and electrical parts, so you need to make sure the appliance is completely separated from the power source. Most cooktops are connected directly to the home’s power supply, so flip the circuit breaker to be sure it’s safe.

1. Remove the cooktop from the counter.

Open the cabinets under the cooktop and locate the brackets that secure the bottom of the cooktop to the underside of the countertop. Unscrew the underside brackets from the counters, then bend the bracket vertical and straight so it can slips out with the cooktop. Depending on your specific model, you may have two or four brackets.
Next, go to the top of the cooktop. The edges are sealed onto the surrounding surface with foam tape, but the tap may have lost its stickiness. Reach one hand under the counter to push the cooktop up from the bottom. If the tape is still securing the cooktop in place too much for you to push it free, use a putty knife to carefully pry the edges free.
The repair itself can take place where the cooktop is installed. But if you want to move it to a better workspace or your kitchen doesn’t have enough room, you can move the whole cooktop elsewhere. Just be sure you disconnect the power cable before you pick the appliance up.
If you’re working onsite, all you need to do is lift up the cooktop one side at a time. Elevate it on two thin boards of wood so it floats over the hole in the counter to give you plenty of access to the edges.

2. Remove the glass top.

First, remove the knobs just by picking them up. They should slide free. Next, remove the screws holding the glass top to the chassis. There should be twelve screws: four along each of the longer edges, and two on each of the shorter edges. Run a putty knife under the edge of the glass to break the tape seal between the glass and the chassis. Then lift up the glass and set aside.
Be careful as you move the glass. You need to lift it straight up to clear the element control shafts. Then lay it flat with the bottom facing up on a towel or soft surface.

3. Access the selector switch in the central console.

Locate the central console box in the body of the cooktop. Then remove the screws under the bottom edge of the console. You will need to shift the insulation away to access them. The console can be flipped open once you remove the screws. But before you move on to this step, move the central element away so you have clearance. You can lay the element on the edge of the chassis, but not on another element.
Flip the console open and locate the broken selector switch on the underside of the console. Remove the wire harnesses connected to the base of the switch. They will be secured with locking tabs, so use a flathead screwdriver to pry them free. If you’re worried about remembering the orientation of the wires during the installation step, take a picture first. Then you have a handy guide showing which wires belong where.
Flip the console closed again and then remove the two screws on the top side of the console. The selector switch is now completely loose, so lift up the console and remove the part.

4. Install the new selector switch.

Slide the new switch’s shaft into position. Rotate it so the wire connections are oriented like they were on the old part, whether that was in the middle or the outside edge. Hold the shaft as you lower the console so it doesn’t slip free. Then screw the top of the switch into place. Open up the console one last time and reattach the wires.

5. Reassemble the cooktop.

Lower the console back into a closed position, then retighten the bolts or screws holding it in place. Reposition the central element.
Before you replace the glass, check the condition of the tape on the top edge of the chassis. Now is a great time to replace the clear tape around the outer edge if any of the adhesives on the four sides is damaged. All you need to do is peel off the old tap and law the new material straight along the top edges. Cut the tape edges and corners so none of it extends over the edge.
Next, remove the foam tape residue on the underside of the glass cooktop. Just scrub the remaining adhesive away. Then lay four new strips of foam tape on the edges of the glass. Make sure the strips don’t hang over the edge or lay on top of each other at the corners. However, the edges should touch. The tape doesn’t just keep the glass securely on the cooktop chassis; it creates a water-resistant seal.
Carefully lay down the glass cooktop so the shafts align with the holes. Once its positioned, press the edges so it sticks to the chassis. Then replace the twelve screws around the edge. Next, put the knobs back on the element control. The shaft holes in the knobs have a pattern, so make sure they align with the tab so they slide into place. Carefully lower the cooktop back into the countertop.
The last step is to secure the cooktop back in place. On the underside of the countertop, bend the brackets flush against the counters and retighten the screws.
Replacing malfunctioning parts instead of replacing the whole appliance is a great way to save money and extend the life of your purchase. Go to Fred’s Appliance Service here to find more DIY repair procedures or to set up an appointment so a technician can take a look.