How to Replace Your Whirlpool Washer’s Outer Tub 63849

If your washer is leaking, check the outer tub for a leak. This can be caused by mice damage or a sharp object, like a button or hair clip, getting loose between the inner and outer tubs. Cracks or holes can’t be sealed so you will need to replace the whole outer tub. Order replacement part #63849 for Whirlpool model washers. Then follow these steps to uninstall and replace the broken outer tub:

This repair involves disassembling your washing machine. Before you get started, make sure it is completely disconnected from the power source. Also turn off the hot and cold water supplies to prevent leaks and water damage.

First, loosen the screws at the corners of the control panel. Remove the edge’s trim if your machine has it. Next, slide the control panel forward toward the front of the machine, and then flip the control panel over so it rests on the back of the machine.

Once you can see the internal parts under the control panel, disconnect the lid switch’s wire harness and use a flathead screwdriver to pry the two metal retaining clips up.

Remove the washing machine body. To do this, open the lid and grab the lip of the body near the tub. You’re going to tilt it forward to remove it, so place your foot against the bottom to secure it and then bring the lip of the body towards you. Lift the body up and pull the body away from the machine. Set it aside.

Next, Loosen the top water hose. Use pliers to pull the wire clamp down and then pull the hose off of the connection point.

After that, remove the vacuum break. Start by grabbing the lower portion and slightly swinging the bottom of the part up towards you. You may have to gently squeeze the plastic form. Once the lower part of the clip is free from the back wall, pull the part down and away to completely free it. Set it aside.

Then, remove the agitator. The agitator is in the middle of the inner tube. Start by pulling the fabric softener dispenser free. Next, pull out the dust cap under the dispenser. Under that, you’ll find the central shaft holding the agitator in place. Loosen the bolt with an extended socket. You may have to hold the base of the tub in place so it doesn’t rotate with the tool. When the bolt is free, pull the whole agitator away. Leave the loose bolt inside the part for now. Remove the spanner nut under the agitator. It should unscrew and come free from the central shaft.

Now you can remove the inner tub. The cover is secured in place by locking tabs around the perimeter. Instead of just pulling up to pull the inner tub away, carefully depress and loosen each of the eight locking tabs so they don’t break. Once each tab is loose, lift the cover away and set it aside. Pull the inner tub up and away.

First, tap the drive block off of the central shaft. Also, wipe the central shaft down with WD40. This will make it easier to slide the seal over the shaft.

Disconnect the outside of the outer tub from any connecting parts. First, disconnect water pressure air hose. Then remove the lower hose from the tub by sliding down the clamp and pulling the hose free of the connection point.

Next, remove the four suspension springs. Start by disconnecting the counterbalance spring from the back of the frame. All you have to do is use a pair of pliers to grab the wire below the spring and pull it taut so you can slip the end free. Then pull the top curve of the wire out of the outer tub’s bracket.

Do the same thing with the three suspension springs arranged around the bottom perimeter of the outer bracket. Set the springs aside. Also, remove the brackets by loosening the screws holding them in place. The back bracket is difficult to reach, so you may have to slide the screwdriver through the holes in the back of the washer.

Pull the outer tub up and away from the central shaft. Set it aside.

Start by removing the old outer tub seal from the old tub and pressing it into the bottom of the new tub. Check the part for tears or wear before you install it. You may need a new one if it’s damaged.

Now you can install the new outer tub.

First, lower the outer tub down around the central shaft. You may have to wiggle it down because of the tight fit from the seal. Make sure the tub is aligned in position by checking that the hose connection point lines up through the hole in the metal plate. The tabs around the bottom edge should also line up with the suspension springs’ brackets.

Next, reinstall the mounting brackets. Slide each bracket’s central tab into place in one hole and then tighten the screw in the other. Repeat this for each bracket.

After that, reinstall the suspension springs. Start with the counterbalance spring by hooking the top wire through the bracket hole. Then use a pair of pliers to pull the spring taut and hook the bottom wire against the frame. Once the counterbalance spring is back in place, reinstall the three remaining springs around the base of the outer tub.

Reconnect the lower drain hose and tighten the clamp.

Slide the drive block back over the central shaft. Next, lower the inner tub back into the tub and screw the spanner nut over the shaft on top of the inner tub’s bottom. Make sure the spanner nut is tight.

Next, reinstall the tub cover. Line up the wide depression with the back of the machine where the vacuum break goes. Then line up the cover with each of the eight mounting tabs. Press the cover down and snap it into place.

Hook the vacuum seal back into the rear frame of the washer. Listen for the click of it snapping into position and make sure the bottom of the clips are flush with the frame.

Then reattach the blacktop hose and tighten its clamp. Also, reattach thin pressure hose. It connects to the water level switch at the bottom of the outer tub and has a retaining clip on the side of the tub to hold the length in place.

Reinstall the agitator assembly. Lower the agitator over the central shaft and tighten the bolt. Then snap the dust cap and fabric softener dispenser into place.

Reposition the body over the frame. Lift up the lid to grab the lip, tilt it at a forty-five-degree angle, and lift up the bottom to align it with the base of the frame. It has four locking tabs at the base to hold it in position when you lower it.

Next, resecure the retaining clips on the top of the machine under the control panel. Reconnect the wire harness for the lid switch. Then flip the control panel back over, slide it into a locked position, and retighten its screws.

Plug your washer back in and turn on the water.

If you want to find more appliance repair procedures or troubleshoot other appliance problems, go to Fred’s Appliance Service to get started.